Pike fly fishing tackle

Posted by on Nov 26, 2011 in Fly Fishing, Scotland | 5 comments

I was asked if I would write a post on pike fly fishing tackle so here it is! I haven’t been at the pike fly fishing game long at all but the experience of casting very large, bulky flies and hooking into pike lets you in on the secrets pretty quickly.

At first I thought I would be able to happily use one of my #6 weight rods, a Sage TCX, which as you probably know is a very stiff, powerful rod. I thought it would cope with pike no problem… wrong. Well, not entirely wrong, it is fine for small jacks and casting smaller flies but that is where the biggest limitation comes in – the flies themselves. I can upline it, stick an #8 weight line on it, even a #9 weight line and it works but it really slows down the recovery speed of the rod and makes casting size 4/0 bunny patterns a bit of a pain. But hey, if you only have a #6 weight and you’re only going to cast small flies for small jacks on a local canal then by all means give it a go! You will be outgunned for bigger fish though, bear the welfare of the fish in mind at all times.

I was told by a few well respected anglers that I should be looking at an #8, #9 or #10 weight, something beefy that will handle 20lb+ fish if you come across them, which on my local waters is a distinct possibility, and will handle heavy lines to chuck big air-resistance flies. They were right. I use a 9’ #9 weight rod and it is a far better tool for the job both in handling the flies and the fish. Which rod is up to you, pick one that you have tried and get on well with, whether that is a softer or stiffer rod is your prerogative. You should also note that pike are going to give a fair bit more of a pull than your typical sized trout which is definitely part of the appeal, so take the right rod with you.

Ok, onto the line – this is probably the most important bit of kit as it will make or break your setup in terms of casting. Get something with a heavy loaded front taper, you need the weight up front to turn over the large flies. If you imagine a typical trout taper as having most of the weight in the middle to rear of the head with the line tapering out thinner towards the tip for delicate presentation, we want the opposite. We want a short front taper that is heavily front weighted. Anything designed specifically for pike fishing or throwing salt water flies will probably be a good bet. A line weight to match your rod should suffice, but don’t be afraid to overline if you feel you need a bit more weight. I use a floating line or an intermediate most of the time and use both full lines and integrated shooting heads depending on circumstance, have a play around with different setups and see what you like best. The shooting head is easier to cast further but it’s not as delicate. In simple terms that is the trade-off. I’m currently using John Norris Big Fly lines in floating and intermediate models for my full lines and a Rio Outbound for my integreated shooting heads. The Outbounds make casting big flies so easy! The John Norris lines present exceptional value for money for what you get in my opinion.

Now onto the leader make up. There are some pretty cool products on the market ranging from hard mono, a very stiff monofilament, to knotable wire, to non-kink titanium wire. Again this is a personal decision and you should probably experiment. I have used hard mono and haven’t had a problem but my preferred setup was one detailed by Dougie on Fly Forums. From the link you can see it is a fluorocarbon leader joined to American fishing wire single strand 40lb titanium attached to a fastach clip. I’ve had very positive experiences casting and fishing with these. No kinks at all and very strong. The clip also makes changing flies a doddle and they will never accidentally open.

The last thing to remember is take a pair of long nosed forceps with you. Pike have large mouths; even the small ones and they have an intimidating number of teeth lying in wait to shred your fingers if you get them too close. It’ll also aid you in removing the hook as fast as possible and returning the fish to the water, oh yeah… last thing – fish barbless. It’s better for the fish and you’re a cooler fly fisher for it!


  1. Scott, All major line compoanies make lines specifically for pike/musky, or at least a “Bass Bug” line. These are all heavily front loaded for quick casting big flies. One tip to save on labourous false-casting: slap out 25-30 feet of line on the water, and use surface tension to help load the rod. A haul (or double haul) helps, but you should be able to shoot 30 feet or more w/o a false cast. The surface noise also helps to attract pike, rather than scare them.

    • Hi George, thanks for taking the time to comment! I only wanted to give a brief post on lines but you’re right, all the companies do have pike models in the range. We don’t typically get the so called bass lines over here in the UK as it’s not a species we have but still plenty of lines to suit. Good tip on the water hauling! I’ve also found from distance casting practice that the longer ‘170’ style stroke becomes quite effective for chucking larger flies, that and oval casting too. The outbounds are phenomenal, make casting big flies so easy, I fancy getting my hands on an outbound short and giving that a crack. They’re pricy but definitely a nice tool to have in the bag.

      What weight lines are you using for your pike fishing? I’m always curious in what other people are doing.


      • Scott,

        I usually have both a 9 & 10 set up in the boat, each with different patterns: usually one of my marabou streamers on one, and a Flashabou streamer or deerhair diver (depending on water conditions) on the other. Anything lighter than a 9 makes too much work casting big flies, although the Flashabou would probably be O.K. on an 8.

  2. Great writing. Very nice post today thanks. You have an excellent blog here. Thanks again for sharing.

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